A recent study from The National Allergy Research Centre and the Department of Dermatology and Allergy Centre, Odense University Hospital, confirms that vesicular systems, such as liposomes and ethosomes, increase the risk of allergic reactions.

Vesicular systems are often marketed as micro- or nanocapsules and used to encapsulate active ingredients in cosmetics and thus transport them deep into the layers of the skin. Further than otherwise possible. The method is often used in anti-wrinkle creams among other things.

“Our study shows that encapsulation amplifies the allergy-inducing effect,” says Jakob Torp-Madsen, physician and PhD student.

“For instance, a person already allergic to perfume will experience a more augmented allergic reaction if they use a cream with micro particles. The particles themselves even heighten the risk of allergy in those who are not already allergic.”

Cosmetics containing micro- or nanocapsules are not required to label and identify themselves as such, but oftentimes the ingredient will be part of the marketing or brand.

“Creams are often advertised as having liposomes or microcapsules. But in general, one has to check out the ingredients, and that makes it nearly impossible to find out which cosmetics have the particles,” explains Jakob Torp-Madsen.

Having recently submitted his PhD thesis on vesicular systems and allergy Jakob Torp-Madsen points out the need for further research in the area.

Read abstract in English here